About Palm Oil: The Crisis of a Contested Food
Palm oil, produced from the palm kernel, has anchored West African and Brazilian kitchens for centuries, its vivid orange colour and rich flavour central to countless dishes. But the rise of Big Food has transformed this culturally vital ingredient into a global commodity – with devastating consequences. Highly refined palm oil now appears in more than half of all ultra‑processed foods, as well as in everyday products like shampoo, toothpaste and cosmetics. To meet demand, vast rainforest regions in Indonesia and Malaysia have been razed and replaced with monoculture plantations, causing irreversible environmental damage.
In response to consumer concern, many companies and retailers are banning palm oil outright. Yet campaigners and cooks argue that this blanket approach threatens the livelihoods of small-scale producers and risks erasing a vital culinary tradition. They insist we must distinguish between sustainably produced palm oil and the heavily processed industrial version that drives deforestation.
In this panel, chefs Maria Bradford, Aji Akokomi and Camila Vargas, who take different stances on palm oil in their work, join chair Dr Anna Sulan Masing to explore how we can protect both cultural heritage and the planet. Expect a nuanced conversation about identity, ecology and what responsible consumption should really look like.
Part of the Food Season Big Weekend over Saturday 13 and Sunday 14 June. Take advantage of our In-Person Big Weekend Multi-Session Discounts by booking more than one session for the Big Weekend.
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Aji Akokomi
Aji Akokomi is the founder of Michelin-starred Akoko, awarded its first star at the 2024 Michelin Guide Awards.
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He also opened Akara in Borough Yards in 2023, which received a Bib Gourmand in 2026. After retraining at Leiths in 2017, Aji travelled across West Africa, studying traditional cooking techniques, ingredients and food systems. His research included time with sustainable palm nut oil producers in Accra, working in his mother’s bakery in Ibadan and learning about jollof rice traditions in Dakar, Senegal, which has inspired one of Akoko’s signature dishes.
Maria Bradford
Maria Bradford is an award-winning chef and author.
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Born in Freetown, Sierra Leone, she developed her love for cooking at the age of nine, learning from her mother and grandmother. After moving to Kent, Maria trained at Leiths School of Food and Wine before launching her own catering business, Maria Bradford Kitchen, in 2017, now known as Shwen Shwen. Maria’s work has been widely recognised for its innovative approach to Sierra Leonean cuisine, and she is a leading advocate for West African culinary heritage.
In 2023 Maria published her debut cookbook Sweet Salone. She has won multiple awards including Chef of the Year at the Condé Nast Awards and the Be Inclusive Hospitality Awards (African chef of the year), as well as her restaurant being judged Opening of the Year by the Michelin Guide.
Dr Anna Sulan Masing
Dr Anna Sulan Masing is an author, poet and academic who writes about food, drink, identity and colonialism.
Credit: Photo by Patricia Niven More
Her debut book, Chinese and Any Other Asian was published in February 2025. Anna is also the brand strategy director at Mr Lyan Studio. Anna Sulan co-founded SOURCED, a public research platform that explores our global food and drink systems; and is co-founder and editor-in-chief of Cheese magazine. Anna Sulan’s 10-part narrative podcast Taste of Place, explores colonialism and nostalgia through the history of pepper; and her 2025 podcast To Be Delicious: a cultural context of MSG in Britain by Lecker, looks at ESEA food culture, diaspora, racism, and the future of msg and umami.
Camila Vargas e Sousa
Camila Vargas e Sousa is a Brazilian chef and entrepreneur, and the creative force behind Little Piece of Bahia.
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Originally from Brazil, she brought the vibrant flavors of Bahia to London, where she started her food business during lockdown. Camila's passion is sharing authentic dishes like acarajé and moqueca, celebrating her heritage through food. She aims to introduce British audiences to the richness of Brazilian cuisine while creating a modern street food experience, growing a brand and a loyal community that connects through culture, flavour and unforgettable experiences.
Food Season Big Weekend discounts
In Person Multi-Session Discounts
For the Food Season Big Weekend 2026, we’re introducing a new in-person multi-session discount to help more of you experience a wider range of sessions.
The more Big Weekend sessions you book, the more you save:
- book 3 or more sessions and receive 20% off your total booking
- book 5 or more sessions and receive 30% off your total booking.
Please add all your sessions to your basket and then these discounts will be applied at check out.
Standard concession rates will continue to apply as usual.
About Food Season 2026
The British Library Food Season returns for its seventh year, bringing together some of the most influential names in food, drink, hospitality, literature and science, for a series of events that highlight the stories, the politics and the people behind how and why we eat. Discover more Food Season events.
Concessions
There are a range of concessions available. These include discounts for British Library Members, half-price tickets for students and under 26s, free entry for carers as well as a number of other concessions.
Attending your events
Please note that this event takes place in the Piazza Pavilion on the piazza of the British Library, London.
Please arrive no later than 15 minutes before the start time of this event. If you have specific access requirements please email customer@bl.uk
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